June

A journey to remember

Leh has been in our itinerary since we left Canada, however the big question was always how will we get to Leh. Leh is a city 3000m high isolated in a Himalayan desert. To get to Leh you can take an expensive flight from Delhi, drive through the politically unstable Kashmir valley or drive a breathtaking but bumpy, narrow, windy Leh-Manali road through 5 mountain passes. When we arrived in Manali we were disappointed that the roads were still closed for commercial vehicles. We entertained ourselves in Manali and a few days slipped by. One day I haphazardly stepped into a travel agency and found out the roads were opening that evening for commercial jeeps. I rushed to the cafe to met Amelia and said, "Do you want to go to Leh at 2am tonight?" She jumped up and suddenly we were shopping for provisions and warm mitts for the 22 hour ride that was supposed to be freezing. The 22 hour bus ride turned out to be the most incredible ride and the hours passed quickly. At 2:30am we boarded the bus, curled into our sleeping bags and fell asleep. At the break of dawn I felt my ears pop and I opened my eyes. All I could see was a 200ft drop below. The landscape continually changed throughout the drive. Each type of geography seemed more dramatic and remote than the last. Sometimes it felt like we were driving along the moon instead of Earth. I have never seen such barren yet beautiful scenery. Several times throughout the drive we stopped either for hanging prayer flags at Buddhist gompas or to get chai from shops in the small villages. 

When we arrived in Leh we were greeted by a friendly Nepalese guy, Raj, who brought us to his guest house. Normally, we avoid the people who greet buses since they are often overly persistent and far from the best deal in town. However, Raj's friendly approach convinced us to follow him to his guest house. The guesthouse was run by Raj, his brother and friend. They were super accommodating and provided endless chai and live guitar music. We ended up becoming good friends with Raj because he       also was our guide for our trek. However, we couldn't go trekking right away. We could barely walk 15m before feeling out of breath. The change in altitude required a few days for acclimatization. Luckily, Leh itself was breathtakingly beautiful. Buddhism is the predominant religion so prayer flags decorate the streets, large and small prayer wheels are ubiquitous and ancient gompas perch on the surrounding hills. 

One day before our trek we went on a trip to Pangong lake.  We shared a jeep with an Indian family and bumped along the windy roads for a few hours. The scenery and the road signs kept us well entertained. There is a safe driving campaign that painted warning signs all over the road. For example, "speed is a knife that cuts through life", "after whiskey driving is risky", "safety on the road is safe-tea at home", "if you sleep your family will weep", "check your nerves on my curves" etc. The drive included the second highest motorable pass in the world. We stopped at the top and taught the family from Mumbai how to build a snowman. After we descended into a valley and arrived at probably the most beautiful lake in the world. The highest altitude glacial lake was crystal clear. When the sun shone the water turned a brilliant turquoise blue near the shore and a deep royal blue farther out. The lake was surrounded in large barren orange mountains. It didn't take Amelia and I long before we were enticed to go swimming in the beautiful water. It was absolutely freezing but lots of fun. 


Triple birthday

Back in Cochi we had met another Canadian, Jaz, and had spent a fun day together. Then when we were walking through the streets of Leh we bumped into him again. It turned out he had the same birthday as me. During my birthday day Amelia, Raj and I did a trial hike for our trek to check our acclimatization. We hiked over the mountains surrounding Leh to a nearby village. Then in the evening we met up for dinner with Jaz and some other travellers. Soon into our night we overheard someone at the next table say, happy birthday. We had discovered another birthday boy and joined our celebrations. 


Marka Valley

Trekking the Himalayas was one of the most incredible experiences. We crossed two passes over 5000m high. Reaching the passes was a highlight. The climb up is steep and the air is thin so often we were out of breath. Each time we stopped we just stood amazed at the stunning view. As we climbed higher and higher the view became more and more spectacular. The mountain ranges seem to go on forever. The lower ranges were jagged and barren. The higher ranges had snow capped peaks that glimmered in the sun. At the top of the pass we are greeted by prayer flags and a 360 degree view. 

To trek in the Marka Valley you have two options for accommodation: camping or homestays. We opted for homestays rather than hire a dozen horses, a cook, poneymen and a guide. For camping lots of horses are needed because lightweight packing is a notion that doesn't exist. They bring a whole kitchen, cosy quilts, chairs, adorable but massive Harry Potter style tents etc. Staying in guesthouses while backpacking initially seemed like a crazy idea but the homestay trekking turned out to be a really neat experience. In the late afternoon each day we reached a village and found a homestay. Upon arrival we had copious amounts of chai and Maggi soup (the  Indian version of Mr. Noodles). Then after a nice break we would explore the village. Most villages were along a river and a couple had beautiful old monasteries. In the evening we would join the family in the traditional Ladhaki kitchen. The kitchens all had shelves full of beautiful pots and teapots meant for important Buddist festivals. The dinners were delicious and exposed us to a whole new diet. Barley is a staple of the region so we had lots of barley breads. One of the most interesting was tingmomoms, which is steamed barley bread served with delicious soup. Dinner also came with an unlimited amount if tea. The traditional Ladhaki tea is very different than  the regular milk and sugar Indian tea. It is a salt butter  tea that is made in a 5 ft long cylinder. The salt, butter, water and tea leaves are all placed in the cylinder and then they moved a long stick up and down inside to mixed the ingredients making a schloosh, schloosh sound and delicious savory tea. Some of the homestays were families. At our favorite homestay there was two adorable kids who loved playing with us. 

We had many adventures along our trek. One day we did a day hike to a different village. We had the objective of getting tea in this village 11 km away but it turned out this picturesque village had no shops open. There was only an old lady on the top of a hill but she couldn't even make tea. We headed back to our village but when we arrived to the cable car for the river crossing we found out it was stuck on the other side. Raj was fairly worried but Amelia and I just laughed, we had learned in India anything is possible. Sure enough someone eventually came along on the other side and released the stuck trolley. 

Along the trek we made friends with a solo trekker, Alex, and his guide, San Paulo. We became a trekker trio with 2 guides. One afternoon we arrived early. We still had plenty of energy so Amelia,Alex and I headed towards the base of a stunningly beautiful peak, Kangazee. We gain altitude with every step. The lack of oxygen and the steep slope made every step difficult. Eventually we collapsed on a rock, laughing hysterically and unable to go any farther. We enjoyed the incredible view, it was well deserved. The sun was shinning on the snowy peaks and there were mountains for as far as I could see. 



Mountains and momos

We drove back south over the passes and then continued to McLeod Ganj, home of the Dali Llama and the tibetan exiles. The temple complex is surrounded in prayer flags, prayer wheels and monks walking around. There is also a cute little cafe with a view watching the monks and tourists walk along a path with the Himalayas and setting sun in the background. We found a copy of Harry Potter and spent our relaxing time reading the 2nd half of the last book aloud.

 The streets of McLeod Ganj are narrow, busy and full of vendors selling Tibetan and Buddist souvenirs. We joined the tourist hustle bustle and took a momo cooking class. Momos are a delicious Tibetan speciality and not too hard to make. 

After momos we took a few steps away from the touristy main street and suddenly we were hiking up yet another beautiful mountain. We passed through farms, pine forests, and a rhododendron forest. We stopped for chai and wild strawberries along the way. We hiked into the mystical looking clouds. When we arrived at the top we found accommodation in the chai shop kitchen. Soon after we arrived the clouds cleared and we had great views of the city on one side and deep valleys and far away peaks on the other side. We had an amazing dinner cooked by the chai shop owner. Dinner was followed by a campfire under the stars with some other hikers. We impressed the Indian hikers when we sung along the the bollywood tunes and showed them our pictures with the big bollywood stars. 

By this point we've hiked several mountains in 3 different states. So the next morning it was time to mix it up a little. It was time to try flying. We drove to the top of a different mountain and then got suited up  with large parachutes. All of a sudden the guides said run and I ran towards the edge of a cliff. Suddenly my feet were not touching the ground and I was hoisted up into the air. I flew higher and higher. Once I relaxed I enjoyed the incredible sensation of flying. We paraglided amongst the birds, soaring in the current. What an incredible feeling.


The Golden Temple

Coming from Surrey we figured it would be an embarrassment if we returned to Canada without seeing the greatest monument in the Punjab, The Golden Temple. Throughout India we've been surrounded by the incredible Indian hospitality and the Sikhs are certainly no exception. The Golden Temple provides free accommodation for both pilgrims and tourists. Although they certainly give foreigners the royal treatment. They have an impeccably clean AC room guarded by 3 very friendly volunteers. One of the cleanest rooms in India. However, the most impressive Sikh hospitality is their kitchen. Like any Sikh temple they provide free meals but unlike other temples they mange to flawlessly serve between 60-80 thousand people daily. The kitchens are filled with massive vats of dal and vegetables. Each vat is about the size of a hot tub. The dining hall is three stories high and has a continual flow of people arriving, eating and leaving. Many volunteers cook, serve and wash dishes. When you leave you hand your dishes to a man and they instantly fly into an assembly line where they are scraped, tossed into a giant bucket, and passed to the dish pit. There is a constant sound of clanking of the metal dishes being moved through the dish pit. The whole process is astounding and incredibly efficient. 

At dawn we went inside the Golden Temple and were dazzled by its beauty and peacefulness. There were many pilgrims bathing and walking around the perimeter. In the inside was a the massive pool of nectar for bathing. A walkway projected into the center of the pool and in the middle was the beautiful Golden Temple. 

The Golden Temple is in the city Amritsar, close to the India-Pakistan border. Every dawn and dusk there is an ornate opening and closing of the border ceremony. We jumped in a shared jeep with one of  our Ashram friends that we had run into and a group of other foreigners. We joined the masses of Indian tourists heading to the border. Our foreign passports were enough to get us VIP seats and a great view of the border and the stands of Indian tourists. Although since it was the border there were security checks and the rule was no bags of any type. This meant that the bags of popcorn we had just bought presented a problem. Our forever useful dupattas came to our rescue and the border guard said to use them to hold the popcorn. When we sat down excitement and nationalism was exploding from the crowds. You could line up for a chance to run down the road to the border holding the Indian flag. Many women filled the street and starting dancing to the bollywood tunes. It was like a scene from a bollywood film. Everyone was dancing and singing in the streets. Color and happy cheers were bursting from every corner. Then the border guards cleared the street and begun the hilarious ceremony. They had traditional uniforms, complete with funny hats. They walked with perfected unison in many strange routines that involved high kicks and little jumps. The flags were lowered as the sun set and we left amused but a little hungry. Luckily our jeep driver had an amazing food recommendation. We feasted on the most incredible Punjabi food. It was bursting with spice and flavor. 



General seating

There are many ways to travel by train in India. The most comfortable way to travel is in the AC cars. The seats are cushy, there is an abundance of leg room, the temperature is perfect and the railway staff are continually offering cooked meals and chai. At night you can get an excellent night sleep. The cabins are shared with 4 or 6 people depending if it is 2 or 3 AC. It seems there is also almost always an Indian mother who insists on sharing her packed meal. 

Second class is chair cars during the day and sleeper at night. The seats are only slightly padded, the leg room more limited and elbow room is minimal. Every adult has a ticket but somehow there are often more people than seats so lots of people fill the aisle and children fill their parent's laps. There is a constant hum of fans and the wind rushes against your face. There is a combination of railway staff and boys from the stations that make their way through the aisles to sell food, deep fried snacks, chai etc. 2nd class is a fraction of the price of AC cars and how the majority of people travel. The people are also very friendly and most speak good English. We travel 2nd class by day and AC at night. It may be 7 or 8 times the price to travel AC but the good nights sleep is worth it. 

Now there is a way to travel even cheaper than 2nd class. I imagine most people don't even have a ticket. We had a last minute change of plans in Amritsar and we were too late to buy regular, emergency or tourist tickets. The only tickets left were general seating or buses. We were tired of buses so we opted for general seating. Each train has a few cars without seat numbers where it is first come, first serve. Our 10 hour train ride to Dehli cost us 100 rupees ($2.10). When we arrived at the station all the seats in our car were already full but we managed to get a seat in the luggage rack. Over the next ten minutes the luggage racks became jammed full of people and luggage. The aisles also filled so there was no walking room or much wiggle room at all. Then the train jolted and started to move. Suddenly about half a dozen boys ran along the side and jumped on. The last two or three hanging out the door as the train gathered speed. Every stop was a hustle bustle of people shouting and pushing to get on and off. Always at the last minute more people hopped aboard. People watching was at the optimum. Although conversation is limited because hardly anyone speaks English, just friendly smiles. There were all sorts of people of all ages. There was no railway staff and no room for anyone to walk down the aisles so boys at the station sell deep fried and processed snacks through the windows. Luckily after about 4 hours windows seats became available below us and we hopped down and pushed our way into them. It was squished but a bit more comfortable than the luggage rack. The ride was long but it was a fascinating way to travel. 


Shopping at last!

Throughout our trip we refrained from buying souvenirs because we didn't want to be burdened by massive packs or carrying multiple bags. Besides, everything is available in Dehli. Finally at the end of our trip we loaded our pockets full of rupees, bought an extra suitcase each and went shopping. We found the perfect shopping spot in New Dehli. The main bazaar forked, on one side was tourist shops and one was the local fruit, vegetable, spice and household markets.  We bought all the kitchen supplies to make chapattis. I dug out my list of all the hindi names for spices from Usha. I bought several kg of spices for cooking and tea. The spice stalls are so brightly colored and have mountains of different spices. Each one gives off a powerful aroma. We continued wandering through the shops bartering and buying until the end of the day when we were so exhausted we could no longer bear to stand. 


Going on a tiger hunt

Our days in India were numbered but we still had an a few outstanding hopes. The most ambitious: see a tiger. Corbett National park is supposed to have 164 tigers amongst many other cats, mammals, reptiles and birds. However it is also supposed to be full of Indian tourists and jeeps and ride bumper to bumper next to each other. We had received very mixed reviews from other travellers about Corbett. The lack of wildlife sightings and exorbitant foreigner prices ($40 each for a 4 hour safari) weren't encouraging. On the other hand Dehli was hot, it was an easy overnight train away and we had a couple days to spare for a frivolous tiger hunt. Our train arrived at 5 am and we followed the crowd of tourists walking to some unknown destination. It turned out to be the reception center and everyone seemed to know what they were doing. We sat down still sleepy and confused while everyone else shouted and pushed. Turns out it was the queue for getting park permits and some people had queued up as early as 3 am. The crowd disappeared and the permits sold out. We were left sitting with about 10 jeep drivers who wanted to be our driver so they were desperate to help us. We slowly started to figure things out as we woke up and tool turns asking the reception and drivers a series of questions. We realized all the permits were sold out but the drivers insured us it was no problem and just wait. We waited and sure enough reception came across a cancellation and we got a driver and a permit. Our luck was good so far. We also convinced our driver to meet us early so we could be first in the gates. 

We successfully arrived first and enjoyed the drive into the center of the park. We saw the elegant spotted deer and the large Saumba deer. Massive ant hills bordered the road and monkeys and birds filled the canopy. The forest yet again was completely different than all the others we had explored. When we arrived at the center of the park we were disappointed to find out despite our first place the ranger's kids got priority to ride the elephants. We had to settle on a jeep ride to explore the park instead. There were many paths but we continually were running into other jeeps. We realized our chance of seeing anything cooler than a deer was pretty much nil. We stopped the jeep and just sat awhile. Nothing much was happening and Corbett was turning out to be as predicted, humans and deer were the only visible mammals. Then suddenly our driver said get down, hold on. He was transformed from a slow sleepy driver to giving out a roar and driving top speed through the jungle. He had received a call from his buddy, a Tiger was spotted. We bumped along as fast as possible, only slowly down for the awesome Monterey lizard that scuttled in front of us. Then we arrived. We saw it, the beautiful cat about 20 m away in the long grass. Its tail rose into the air, flicked back and forth a few times. It turned to look at the crowd and then snuck away into the grass. We were filled with excitement and joy. We actually saw a tiger! Our luck was incredible. 


Setrawa memories

While playing with the kids in Setrawa we learned some clapping games. One in particular we remember and have sung it (complete with actions) several times since Setrawa. Each time we sing it I remember the smiling faces in Setrawa. It goes:
Tom and Jerry, Tom and Jerry
Christmas merry, Christmas merry
A la ho, ho, ho
A la see, see, see
A la ho, a la see
Pila pepsi, chala taxi (pila-drink & chala-drive)
Pila Merinda, chala Hero Honda
Pila Frooty, chala Scooty
Pila Limeca, tumka (tumka-you & the action is to bump hips together)

After leaving Setrawa we made a goal to try all of the drinks and ride all of the modes of transport. Pepsi & and taxi was easy. We rode taxis on a few occasions, such as to and from the airport. I don't normally like pop but after walking the ancient ruins in Hampi I craved the cool, sweet carbonation of pepsi. Frooty was a delicious mango juice. We bought juice boxes and they were part of our picnic lunch on the hills in Manali. Scooty we accomplished by driving a scooter through Hampi's countryside. Limeca was similar to sprite but with a strong lime flavor. An excellent refreshment one hot day. Merinda turned out to be a nasty, super sweet orange pop. After sampling Merinda in Mumbai we only had one item outstanding: Hero Honda. Hero Hondas are the most common motorcycle in India. According to one person there was 10 million sold last year and they are the most reliable. They are great for transport in the cities although they are really wimpy looking next to any real motorcycle. Either way it was just a matter of getting the courage to ask someone for a ride. We got close in Manali but our guy was out of petrol. Then in Leh there were no Hero Hondas, they probably couldn't make it up the passes. Finally when we were in Ramnager ( the city outside Corbett Tiger Reserve) we were successful. The guys who helped us get our park permits left at the same time as us. We saw they had motorcycles and we were delighted when we realized they were Hero Hondas. We asked for a ride and it was mission accomplished!